A mirror that hangs from the ceiling solves a problem wall mirrors can't: no wall. Over a floating vanity, in front of a window, against tile or stone you don't want to drill, or between two sinks in the middle of a room, a ceiling-mounted mirror floats where you need it and leaves the wall alone.
It's also more installable than most people expect, as long as you know two things going in: what you're anchoring into, and how to set the drop height. We build these mirrors, so here's the whole process, including the step most buyers don't expect.
Where a ceiling-hung mirror makes sense
- Over a window or glass block. A vanity in front of a window has no wall for a mirror. A ceiling-hung mirror floats in front of the glass and still lets light through around it.
- Tile, stone or wallpaper you don't want to drill. The holes go in the ceiling instead of your backsplash.
- Floating or open vanities. A suspended mirror keeps the airy look intact.
- Double vanities and open plans. Two hanging mirrors define each station without a wall between them.
- Dressing rooms, closets and salons. Ours are mirrored on both faces, so a mirror hung away from the wall is usable from either side.
Setting the drop height: the step most people miss
A ceiling-hung mirror arrives at one length, and that length is meant to be adjusted to your ceiling before you assemble it.
Our CH-90 ships so the center of the mirror sits 60" below the ceiling, with an overall assembly about 71" long. In a room with a 9-foot ceiling that lands the mirror close to right. Under a standard 8-foot (96") ceiling, it would put the center of the mirror about 36" off the floor, far too low. That's why the vertical arms are built to be shortened.
Work out your cut
- Decide where the mirror's center should sit. Eye level for whoever uses it most, usually 60–65" from the floor.
- Subtract that from your ceiling height. That's the drop you need, measured ceiling to mirror center.
- Subtract your drop from 60". That's how much to cut off.
Example: a 96" ceiling with the mirror centered at 62" needs a 34" drop. 60" − 34" = 26", so you'd shorten the arms by 26".
The cut happens on four pieces, before any assembly: the two 26" all-thread tubes and the two finished tubes that go over them. Take the same amount off all four with a hacksaw, and clean up the cut ends so the threads still start easily. Measure twice. You can take more off later, but you can't put it back.
Also check the bottom edge. Over a vanity, leave roughly 8–12" between the counter and the bottom of the mirror so it clears the faucet, and make sure the top edge clears the tallest person's head.
What you're anchoring into
This is the part that matters most. These mirrors weigh about 35 pounds, and all of it hangs from two ceiling plates with leverage from the arms every time someone bumps one.
- The two arms sit exactly 19" apart, center to center. Ceiling joists are usually 16" apart, so both plates will not land on joists on their own. Plan for that before you drill.
- The supplied screws are made to go through drywall and into solid wood above the ceiling. They need real framing or blocking to bite into. Drywall alone won't hold this mirror.
- Your options, in order of preference: add solid blocking between the joists if you can get into the space above the ceiling; shift the mirror's position so the 19" spacing straddles framing you can reach; or, as a last resort, back the off-joist plate with heavy-duty toggle bolts rated well above the load.
- Concrete or plaster ceilings need the right masonry anchors instead.
- Check what's above. Look for wiring and pipes before drilling, especially in a bathroom ceiling under a second floor.
Tools you'll need
- Stud finder, tape measure, pencil
- Hacksaw, for shortening the arms
- Level
- Drill and a screwdriver or nut driver
- Stepladder, safety glasses, and a second person
How to install a ceiling-hung mirror
These steps follow the instructions packed with our CH-90. Yours ships with its own sheet; that sheet wins if anything differs.
1. Mount the two ceiling plates
Mark two points on the ceiling exactly 19" apart on center, positioned over where the mirror should hang, usually centered on the sink and far enough out from the wall to clear the backsplash and faucet.
Each assembly is a ceiling plate, a mounting plate post, and a screw. Put the screw through the larger-hole end of the post, up through the center hole of the ceiling plate, and drive it into the framing. Do this for both marks, and make sure each one is solid before moving on.
2. Build the vertical arms
With your tubes cut to length, thread a 36" all-thread tube all the way up into a mounting post. Slide a finished tube up over it, add the double-sided check ring, then thread on the rod joiner. Thread the 26" all-thread tube into the bottom of that joiner, slide the second finished tube up over it, and screw the mirror connector hub onto the bottom. Leave one round metal cap on the front-facing side of the hub. Repeat for the second arm.
3. Hang both mirrors
Your mirror comes with two glass panels that mount back to back, and both have to go on. They balance the arms, and hanging only one leaves the assembly loaded to one side.
Remove the back-facing metal caps from both hubs. Each hub nipple carries four clear washers; slide two off, leaving two on. With one person supporting the glass and the other aligning it, slip the back mirror onto both hub nipples, replace the two washers, and hand-tighten the caps. Then do the same on the front. Two people make this step much easier and much safer.
4. Level and tighten
Check across the top edge of the mirror, adjust, then snug everything down. A gentle push should tell you the whole assembly is rigid.
Mistakes to avoid
- Assembling before cutting. Work out the drop and shorten the tubes first. Undoing a finished assembly to fix the height is a bad afternoon.
- Cutting unevenly. All four pieces get the same cut, or the mirror hangs crooked.
- Trusting drywall. The most common failure, and the most expensive one when it lets go.
- Hanging only one glass panel. Both are required for the arms to stay balanced.
- Forgetting the door. Make sure the mirror clears the swing of the bathroom or closet door.
- Hanging it too low. A mirror that looks right from across the room can block the faucet or make tall users stoop.
Frequently asked questions
Can you hang a mirror from the ceiling?
Yes. A ceiling-hung mirror suspends from two plates fastened to the ceiling, with rigid vertical arms holding the mirror at a set height. It's a standard fixture in bathrooms, dressing rooms and salons.
How do you attach a mirror to the ceiling?
Two ceiling plates screw into framing or solid blocking above the drywall, threaded tubes make up the arms, and the glass mounts to a connector hub at the bottom of each arm. Drywall anchors alone aren't sufficient.
How low should a ceiling-hung mirror hang?
Center it around 60–65" from the floor. Over a vanity, leave 8–12" between the counter and the bottom edge so it clears the faucet, and keep the top above the tallest user's head.
Can a ceiling-hung mirror be shortened?
Yes, and usually it has to be. Ours ship with the mirror center 60" below the ceiling. You cut the two 26" all-thread tubes and the two finished tubes by the same amount before assembling, which is how you set the height for your ceiling.
Do you need to hit a joist?
You need solid wood above the drywall, whether that's a joist or blocking you add. The arms are 19" apart and joists are typically 16" apart, so plan the anchoring before you drill.
Are ceiling-hung mirrors double-sided?
Ours are. Each one includes two glass panels that mount back to back, so the mirror works from either side, which is what makes it practical in the middle of a room or in front of a window. Both panels are required for the arms to hang balanced.
Do ceiling-mounted mirrors work in a bathroom?
They're a natural fit. Solid brass hardware doesn't rust, so humidity isn't an issue. Keep the mirror out of direct shower spray and clean it like any other bathroom mirror.
Can you install one in a rental?
It requires drilling into the ceiling and anchoring into framing, so you'd need your landlord's permission.
What about a sloped ceiling?
The standard hardware is designed for a flat, level ceiling. On a slope you'd need custom mounts; ask us before ordering.
Our ceiling-hung mirrors
Allied Brass makes five frameless ceiling-hung mirrors with beveled edges: round, oval, rectangle, landscape rectangle and arched top. Each is assembled in the USA, ships with two glass panels and solid brass mounting hardware, and comes in 28 finishes, so the mirror matches the towel bars, hooks and accessories already in the room.
The round CH-90, for reference, is 22" in diameter, hangs on arms 19" apart, and weighs about 35 pounds. Every mirror carries our lifetime warranty and ships free within the United States.